Bodeans BBQ Restaurant Review
Bodean’s
Soho, London
Reviewed by Sean Dodson
Barbeque is something of a religion in Kansas City. Nowadays it’s becoming increasingly popular in London too, thanks largely to the rise of Bodean’s, an American-themed diner that grills enormous racks of meat on a Kansas City oak-burning, “smoke pit”.
Bodean’s opened in Soho in 2002 and it has since wafted its smoky charm out to as many as four branches of its “diner-delis” across London. The Soho branch is very busy: a queue out the door and a 45-minute wait for a table at the upstairs deli, when we arrived very early on Thursday evening.
Luckily we had pre-booked and were immediately taken to a smart booth in the restaurant downstairs. The restaurant does a smart line in starters, we were sorely tempted by the likes of the Creole Gumbo or the Crab Cakes and Gamba Shrimp, but my friend and I had come for the main event: The Boss Hog Platter (£34.95 for two). Within minutes, hardly enough time to appreciate the bottle of San Rafael – a lovely plum-infused Merlot (£18.95) – a large oval platter of drool-inducing meat was brought to the table heaving with spare and baby back ribs, a “Jacob’s Ladder” beef rib, chicken thighs and a pair of smoked sausages. All delicious: the smokiness of the grill balanced with the sweetness of the barbeque sauce.
But the real attraction of the platter was a contest between the pulled pork and the burnt ends of beef. The pulled pork had been slow-cooked for extra succulence – so incredibly juicy – while the burnt ends of beef, a Kansas classic, had taken a fatty brisket, grilled until charred on one end and served with a barbeque sauce that affected the tongue like liquid smoke.
This carnivorous feast was attended by nothing more than a pot of coleslaw and a large ramekin of fries that sat at the side of the platter like a pair of well-dressed footmen, present at the feast but not really participants.
Although we attacked with gusto, a good 30 minutes later we admitted, I’m almost ashamed to admit, defeat, the last of the ribs overwhelming us. We couldn’t quite finish the blowout. Still after another glass of wine we regrouped and approached the dessert menu. The key lime pie (£3.50) was sublime, light and fluffy and a perfect riposte to the carnival of flesh we had consumed. The blood orange sorbet (£3.95), an equally fitting flourish.
Bodean’s might be in the centre of Soho’s swanky restaurant quarter but – in a good way – it’s the antidote to the fine restaurants that line the narrow streets. Basketball plays on the large screens on the wall, and there are large parties making merry on communal tables. Which make Bodean’s an authentic take on the All-American roadhouse, but one that’s special enough to select for a treat. Just make sure you wait until hungry enough.
Rating: 5/5 
For more information or to book a table visit www.bodeansbbq.com
